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Scholar

Purpose

The purpose of the Scholar level is to demonstrate in-depth excellence in costuming for a single culture and time period.

Requirements

Do all fifteen of the following that comprise or are related to the production of a complete outfit for a single individual.

• Three garments
• Three accessories
• Three entries from the Teaching and Writing category
• Three entries from the Other category
• Three entries from any of the categories

Limitations on the entries:

• A complete outfit consists of underpinnings, appropriate layers of garments for indoor use, headwear/hairdressing, and accessories. The outfit may, but is not required to include shoes and garments for outdoor wear. All garments and accessories in the complete outfit must be made for the same individual, for example, a middle-class adult man living in 14^th century.

• All garments, accessories, classes taught and taken, and written articles must pertain to the same Country and Culture, and to the same Century. This is known as your “Focus area”, for example, 9^th Century Scandinavia, or 16^th Century Eastern. Refer to the grid, and to the Appendix for details.

Standards

Garments and Accessories

1. Workmanship requirements:

• The object demonstrates the period color, surface design, texture, and fabric choice, with explanations for any substitutions.
• A proper silhouette is achieved with period cut and knowledge of period construction techniques.
• Fit and ability to move in the garment is appropriate to the time period.
• Finishing techniques are appropriate to the time period.
• Embellishment, or lack thereof, is appropriate to the time and place of the garment or accessory.

2. Documentation minimum requirements:

• Images of three relevant primary sources that you used as the basis for your garment or accessory.
• A three-page written summary of your project
• A bibliography of the sources you used to research your garment or accessory.

Teaching and Writing Category

1. Write an article for the Guild Newsletter (FTSO). The article must be one of the following:
• A costuming or textile related article in your Focus Area of 800 words or more.
• An annotated bibliography of at least 15 books on a specific costuming or textile subject in your Focus Area.
• A book review of approximately 800 words on a costuming or textile art book in your Focus Area.

2. Provide instruction on a costume or costume-related textile arts subject in your Focus Area for a minimum of two hours. This includes teaching one-on-one to a minimum of five people, or teaching a class of at least two hours duration at the Local (Barony or Shire), Kingdom, or National (for example, at Pennsic or an International Conference) level. Teaching one-on-one requires a written statement from each student that includes what you taught, the location, and date. If you taught a class at an event, provide the class title, event title, location, and date taught.

Other Category

• Take a class. The class must be on a subject related to costuming or costume-related textile arts in your Focus Area. Provide the title of the class, the name of the teacher, the location or event name, and the date when the class was taken.
• Enter your complete outfit in the Costumers Guild Tourney Garb or Court Garb contest, or enter one or more items from it at Kingdom A&S. Note that you may only count one contest entry for this level.
• Perform service for the Guild. Volunteer your time for a Costumers Guild event or activity, or serve as a Costumers Guild Officer or Deputy. Provide the type and amount of service rendered. Twelve hours of service is the minimum and may be done over several events.
• Be a Judge or Student Judge at a Kingdom level contest. Judge a minimum of 12 hours at a Kingdom Costumers Guild Contest or judge entries in costuming or costume-related textile arts in your Focus Area at Kingdom A&S. This may be done over multiple events.

Level Emblem

The challenger is given a different gem each time the Scholar level is achieved:

1. Lapis
2. Carnelian
3. Amber
4. Amethyst
5. Topaz
6. Garnet
7. Tourmaline
8. Ruby
9. Emerald
10. Diamond

Additional Information

• Everything for this level does not need to be presented at a single event.

• This level may be repeated multiple times. Each time must be for a different Focus Area.

• The fiber or fabric choice should display or approximate the period hand, weight, weave, and finish. Explain any substitutions, for example, "This gown would have been made of silk brocade but I could not afford 10 yards of silk brocade, therefore..."

• Period color includes the knowledge of how the color could be achieved using period dye sources.

• Period cut and construction of garments and accessories includes the shape of the pieces, as well as finishing techniques such as a hem, lining, and seam finishes. You can use sewing machines and other modern aids, as long as the outward period appearance is achieved. Any difference from period techniques should be explained, for example, “this one button hole was sewn by hand to demonstrate the technique used in period. The other sixty six button holes were made using my sewing machine.

• For items in which toxic or unobtainable materials were used in period, non-toxic obtainable substitutions should be made. We are trying to achieve the look, not the aftereffects.

• An example of service to the Costumers Guild would be organizing a series of costume classes at an event. This includes coordinating the activity with other Guild officers, finding teachers, coordinating the schedule with the autocrat, setup and teardown if applicable, etc.

• An example from a previous challenger: Focus Area – 16^th Century England.

• Complete Outfit: 1540’s English Noblewoman, consisting of Garment1: 1540 English corset, Garment2: 1540 English dress, Garment3: embroidered 1540 woman's chemise, Accessory1: 1540 Hood, Accessory2: 1540 woman's gloves, Accessory3: 1540 woman's shoes.
• Teaching/Writing1: wrote Medieval and Renaissance Colors and Fabrics, Teaching/Writing2: taught Tudor Costuming, Teaching/Writing3: taught 16th Century Underwear.
• Other1: judged 12th Night Costume Contest, Other2: took Introduction to Goldwork, Other3: took Survey of Renaissance Needlework.
• Any1: Served as Education Officer's deputy, Any2: taught Construction of a man's shirt from 1540, Any3: Accessory - Lettice cap of 1540.

See the Appendices for a glossary of terms and other information.

Please contact the Challenges Coordinator if you have any questions.